Paris 2015

by Kermit Lynch

Again, this year I urge our readers who are going to Paris for several days or weeks to research finding an apartment rather than a hotel. For one thing, you can enjoy shopping for your own cooking.

Remarkable vegetables? Google Joël Thiébault and frequent his street market stand. His lettuces are the best ever, his carrots barely resemble the taste of the carrots we’re used to, and I never tired of them. Prepare his products simply as you desire—they speak for themselves.

For meat products, go to Hugo Desnoyer in the 14th, or the only butcher on the block-long rue du Nil (same street as Frenchie’s three petite restaurants), where I bought an early spring lamb shoulder that I salted and peppered and thymed—lots of dried thyme—then simply roasted in the oven. Wow! Also, their baked and smoked hams . . . I never, ever imagined ham could be so good.

Dining out, the best food I had was at Frenchie Wine Bar. I was having issues with a herniated disk, so I ate standing up at a high table with my pal from Gros ’Noré. They were playing some James Brown cuts I’d somehow never heard, good cuts, so, bad back and all, I found myself bopping in place because of the irresistible beat. Roll over Beethoven, dig these rhythm and blues. Frenchie has opened a hotel room–sized diner-style joint as well that serves excellent fish and chips. He also offers bacon/tomato sandwiches and hot dogs. Neither place takes reservations.

Other satisfying meals were at Septime, Clamato, and Abri. All can be googled. Reserve well in advance!

One problem at the new hip restos in Paris (and more and more are popping up): instead of being grateful for their success, some take on a snotty attitude. Also, the so-called natural wine lists—you grow tired of the same producers on wine lists time and again. I’ll take some credit for pioneering natural wines, starting way back with Jules Chauvet and Marcel Lapierre, for example, but how some winemakers have convinced anybody that they are more natural than thou—I, for one, know better. Ask winemakers today if they make natural wines and they all say yes.

If you are not on a tight budget, go to the Michelin-starred Carré des Feuillants. The wine list is beyond belief, filled with old vintages from great domaines at surprisingly low prices. Arrive early enough to spend time surveying page after page of temptation.

My advice: rent an apartment and enjoy the exploding gastronomic scene in Paris.

 Joël Thiébault’s vegetables  © Gail Skoff

Leave a Reply