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February 2012

KLWM’S FIRST LAMBRUSCO

FATTORIA MORETTO

by Anthony Lynch

After my sister and I turned our dad onto Lambrusco in New York (where the wine enjoys significant popularity—it’s hip now), I jumped at the opportunity to head to Italy with the goal of discovering one worthy of the KLWM portfolio. Fattoria Moretto’s wines from the Lambrusco Grasparossa grape fit all the criteria of a well-made Lambrusco: inviting aromatics, playful yet elegant fizz, and a clean, crisp finish. Unlike the mass-produced, sugary Lambrusco that gained so much popularity in the 1970s, Moretto’s organically produced wines represent the traditional Lambrusco that marries so well with the cuisine of Emilia-Romagna. Pour a glass alongside thinly sliced Prosciutto di Parma and mortadella, Parmigiano Reggiano drizzled with balsamic vinegar, or hearty dishes like ragù alla Bolognese, and you’ll see that these wines are much more satisfying than a simple red that sparkles.

2010 LAMBRUSCO GRASPAROSSA
DI CASTELVETRO SECCO

Densely packed with cherries, cranberries, and strawberries, a bottle of the Lambrusco Secco is not likely to last long. While it would be a great addition to any party, it would be silly to set limits for it—try it as an apéritif, with salumi, or with your main course. If there is any left, it works after dinner, too. I like it with fresh strawberries. I think this will be the beginning of a great friendship, because once you make Moretto’s wines’ acquaintance, you’ll want to repeat the experience. His Lambrusco is too delicious to miss.

$18.00 per bottle $194.40 per case

2010 LAMBRUSCO GRASPAROSSA
DI CASTELVETRO “MONOVITIGNO”

Fattoria Moretto’s single-vineyard cuvée combines the festiveness of Champagne with the earthy rusticity of a Rhône or Bandol red. Bone-dry with vivacious berry fruit, the Monovitigno has intensity and liveliness. Texture, finesse, and a true sense of place make this a multidimensional Lambrusco, ready to drink upon arrival. Here at last is a wine connoisseur’s Lambrusco.

$24.00 per bottle $259.20 per case


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February 16th, 2012

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KERMIT LYNCH WINE MERCHANT
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Berkeley, California, 94702
510.524.1524

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