CLASSIC LOIRE 

by Anthony Lynch

2004 MUSCADET • DOMAINE MICHEL BRÉGEON

Muscadet is not known as a wine that can age, but in the right hands even the most unexpected concept can have a delicious outcome. André-Michel Brégeon takes his Muscadet seriously, and he ages the wine for this particular cuvée on its lees for several years. This induces a process known as autolysis, and for those of us who aren’t oenologists or microbiologists, that translates to a sublime mouthfeel and extraordinary complexity. Brégeon’s 2004 Muscadet is taut like a tightrope and delicately balanced like the gymnast walking on it. It also has typicity—that crisp acidity and ocean-mist fragrance that allows it to pair so well with fresh shellfish.

$32.00 per bottle   $345.60 per case

2010 CHINON “LES VARENNES DU GRAND CLOS”
CHARLES JOGUET

Charles Joguet’s single-vineyard cuvées are an obvious choice if you are seeking to experience the best of what the Cabernet Franc grape and Chinon’s terroir have to offer. Each of winemaker Kevin Fontaine’s bottlings is loaded with character, and lucky for us, the domaine makes a Chinon for every occasion. The wines range from simple and fruit-driven to more serious, dense wines that have long-term aging potential. Les Varennes du Grand Clos stands somewhere in between, possessing the best of both worlds. Immediately enticing with its perfume of wild forest fruit, it shows it means business on the palate. There is an inky depth along with a velvety texture. Knowing the domaine’s wines and the balance of the 2010 vintage, it is safe to say that this one will be offering classic Chinon pleasure for years to come.

$36.00 per bottle   $388.80 per case