André Ostertag’s
Amazing new arrivals
by Kermit Lynch
2011 Pinot Blanc “Barriques”
After a 2010 Pinot Blanc quite Burgundian in character, André’s 2011 has more of an Alsatian accent. The lovely fruit smells somewhat like a quince/apple/pear compote. The French would call it plein de sève—we’d say full of sap. (We wouldn’t say sappy.) André is a versatile kind of guy who won’t be pigeonholed, and in 2011 his Pinot Blanc attains a sappy deliciousness.
$24.00 per bottle $259.20 per case
2010 Riesling “Fronholz”
Calling all of you who do NOT gravitate toward Riesling: this might be the one. The nose is deep and subtle—it is not straining to prove a thing. It is a self-assured wine—how about that? The palate is ample, honeyed, and if Rieslings are sometimes too sharp for you, this one isn’t. It is not bone-dry, but it is dry. If ever again I find myself wondering what to drink with choucroute garnie—a masterpiece of Alsatian cuisine—I hope I remember to serve this bottle. What a pairing!
$43.00 per bottle $464.40 per case
2010 Riesling “Heissenberg”
Heissen means “hot.” Berg means “mountain.” Hot = ripeness = full body. Mountain = slope = drainage, resulting in more character and nobility (unless one is speaking about Cabernet Sauvignon, because the Médoc and Napa Valley are pretty flat, yet their wines are nowhere near shabby).
So this is a ripe, hillside Riesling, its acidity ensconced in its voluptuous flesh. What else lurks within? Lots.
$43.00 per bottle $464.40 per case
2010 Riesling “Muenchberg” grand cru
Muench is Alsatian for “monk.” In the 12th century, monks were inspired to plant the site to vines. Now it is officially a grand cru, even a grandiose cru in vintages like 2010. Something about it seems towering. When I say it towers over the others, do I mean it is better? Well, not exactly. The Fronholz is actually better suited to the kind of home cooking I do, for example. Yet Muenchberg towers over it, lordly, above the fray.
$58.00 per bottle $626.40 per case
2010 Pinot Gris “Fronholz”
The aroma does not leap from the glass. No, it invites you in, and once you enter, it’s pretty comfy inside, rather luxurious, stately, spacious—little doorways leading here and there.
If you have ever thought, “Hmm, I wish this white Burgundy had a tinge of Pinot Gris in it,” this wine comes pretty close to being just that. There is Mirabelle plum along with a suggestion of peatiness. You might be tempted to boil it down and put it over ice cream or even the one you love. Just kidding. However, tasting the wine did inspire the jest.
$49.00 per bottle $529.20 per case
2010 Muscat “Fronholz”
This Muscat is not for dessert! It is dry, medium-bodied, and remarkable for its perfume and the luminescent sensation on the palate. I uncork a bottle or two of André’s Muscat per year and serve it as a jaded palate apéritif or with cheeses. (Jaded palate means it is unusual and wakes you up from the humdrum.)
$36.00 per bottle $388.80 per case
