by Dixon Brooke
2013 saint-chinian RoSÉ • Mas Champart
The timing could not be more perfect for the Champarts’ wonderful rosé this year. It was tightly wound after the spring bottling, but now that it has rested in the Champart cellars over the summer, it arrives in Berkeley in ideal drinking condition. For our Bay Area customers, September sees the return of the summery climate of late spring. Parfait! Mourvèdre is the dominant component in the Champarts’ rosé, bringing structure and wild garrigue elements, while Cinsault offers fresh, smooth fruit and helps round things out. It is a very elegant, classy wine, as always.
$16.00 per bottle $172.80 per case
2013 Languedoc Blanc “Les Cocalières”
As Sylvain’s incredible Cocalières vineyards reach their teenage years, not only are the vines’ roots beginning to settle deep into the volcanic bedrock of this stunning terroir, but also Sylvain has had a decade to experiment with the harvest times of the various grapes and the vinification and élevage until he has found his preferred style, and what a style it has turned out to be! Fresh and racy at a cool 12.5% alcohol, it completes its malo and is refined in foudres. The Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairette, and Vermentino all have something to say here, and the wine transports you to the limestony, truffle-ridden, thyme-infused volcanic crater that is Cocalières. Production is tiny, but I hope you can all experience its charms. Kermit attended Aupilhac’s twenty-fifth anniversary feast and drank the 2002 Cocalières. He wrote that it convinced him that it is “one of the top sites for white wine in the south of Europe.”
$35.00 per bottle $378.00 per case
2011 Corbières Rouge
“RÉSERVE LA Demoiselle”
Domaine de Fontsainte
Bruno Laboucarié’s Demoiselle cuvée, from century-old Carignan vines, has been a KLWM staple for many years and is as consistent as they come—consistently well-made, consistently a reflection of its terroir, consistently delicious young and old. It exudes the warmth and generosity of the Laboucarié family and the rolling hills of their native Boutenac, the most highly regarded terroir of the Corbières. Now, a moment to consider its price.
$16.95 per bottle $183.06 per case
2013 Pays d’Hérault Rouge “Les Servières”
Servières is a rare creature, a pure Cinsault from century-old vines. This vintage is deep and grapey, with black mission fig, blueberry, and blackberry fruit oozing into every cavity of one’s taste buds. I envision it with grilled pork tenderloin rubbed with chilies and thyme, but that’s only the first thing that popped into my head.
$29.00 per bottle $313.20 per case
2012 Banyuls “Rimage”
Domaine La Tour Vieille
Thank goodness for Tour Vieille. The production of this style of wine in Catalonia has become a lost art. So few independent producers remain today, and none are as talented as Tour Vieille. The oxidative, solera, fortified wines of Banyuls have been known and appreciated for many centuries, but the intensity of labor required to farm these hills and the compulsory patience to make great wines have all but eliminated a new generation’s possibility to thrive. This is our most popular wine from Tour Vieille. Their Rimage Banyuls is released young, shortly after the harvest year, and explodes with a cornucopia of fruit of which only Grenache from these steep schist hillsides is capable. Drink it with figs, with nut tarts, with chocolate; enjoy a glass after dinner with friends. And inquire about the many exceptional wines of Tour Vieille—we have numerous styles, colors, and flavors, some produced from rotating solera-style barrels started decades ago.
$24.00 per 500-ml bottle $259.20 per case