LET’S BE FRANC

by Lori Varsames

The Romans first planted Cabernet Franc around the port of Bordeaux. While the grape has enjoyed a nice career there as a back-up varietal to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, it has deservedly earned its own claim to fame in the Loire Valley, where it basks center stage as a single-varietal wine. Chinon and Bourgueil are the two greatest appellations for this noble grape, which the locals refer to as “le Breton.” We invite you to try a sampling of some of the Loire’s most outstanding and memorable reds.

2010 BOURGUEIL “FRANC DE PIED”
C. & P. BRETON

The Bretons have taken French wine’s ultimate leap of faith by planting vines with ungrafted rootstock. Tasting wine from a Franc de Pied vineyard is always a rare opportunity, because Franc de Pied vines are vulnerable to the deadly phylloxera. Fine-grained and silky, this unfiltered bottling shows lovely notes of rose petals, white pepper, and pomegranates. A pure breton, by Breton.

$32.00 per bottle $345.60 per case

2009 CHINON “LES CHARMES”
CHARLES JOGUET

The name of Joguet’s latest cuvée says it all—this Chinon is totally charming. Mesmerizing deep, black cherry fruit and earthy, forest-floor aromas lured my nose back into the glass repeatedly. Les Charmes is a tease; however enticing the nose and playful on the palate, a firm finish suggests even more generosity to come, but why wait when it’s winking at you now?

$34.00 per bottle $367.20 per case

2009 CHINON “LE CLOS GUILLOT”
BERNARD BAUDRY

Le Clos Guillot is Bernard Baudry’s inky and deeply stony opus. There is an alluring dichotomy to this Chinon, where soft, dark fruit meets mighty tannins. It gets that powerful minerality from the ochre limestone of the vineyards. Bernard is one of Chinon’s greatest talents. What’s more, his genius comes without ego.

$32.00 per bottle $345.60 per case