THE REAL LOIRE
by Anthony Lynch
2013 SANCERRE “CLOS DES BOUFFANTS”
DOMAINE ROGER NEVEU
Look out—there’s a new Sancerre in town! The Neveu family has deep roots in the Loire Valley, so it is only fitting that they produce wines as closely tied to the land as they are. Their Clos des Bouffants is an extremely steep vineyard with an abundance of rocky limestone. It yields a Sancerre with unctuous fruit pierced by a shining ray of zippy citrus, with a chalky terroir note somewhere in the mix. Quaff discerningly.
$24.00 per bottle $259.20 per case
2012 SAVENNIÈRES “CUVÉE SPÉCIALE”
CHÂTEAU D’EPIRÉ
At first, a hint of honey may incite you to dig your nose a bit deeper into your glass. But don’t be fooled: this Savennières is not out to charm. On the contrary, it is a stubborn—albeit fascinating—Chenin Blanc. Upon sipping, you’ll encounter hard slate, a steely austerity that is perhaps not inviting but most definitely stimulating.
This cuvée is raised in large chestnut casks, by the way. You can age it, but you don’t need to in order to admire its unique qualities.
$30.00 per bottle $324.00 per case
2009 MUSCADET SÈVRE ET MAINE
DOMAINE MICHEL BRÉGEON
A mind-blowing Muscadet from Michel Brégeon. The ripe 2009 vintage—along with eighteen months’ lees contact in subterranean glass-lined tanks—gave unforeseen amplitude to this bone-dry white. Lime zest, grapefruit, quince, and cool oceanic winds comprise the nose. On the palate, classic Muscadet traits emerge despite its unusually broad structure: zingy acidity, sublime freshness, a plethora of minerals. You might even consider it for your cellar, as I imagine even more distinctive, unique flavors will emerge with time.
$35.00 per bottle $378.00 per case
2012 CHINON “LES PETITES ROCHES”
CHARLES JOGUET
This Chinon, from gravelly vineyards that lend it its name, is a product of solely the free-run juice from the fermentation. In other words, the rough tannins released from pressing are left behind, leading to this sophisticated cuvée driven by delicacy and finesse. Floral aromas dominate—rose petals, to be precise, plus a hint of fresh raspberries. It is an elegant expression of Cabernet Franc, with faint earthy undertones.
$23.00 per bottle $248.40 per case
2012 CHINON • BERNARD BAUDRY
Baudry’s “Domaine” bottling could very well be the perfect introduction to the estate, or to the wines of Chinon, or even to the Cabernet Franc grape in general. Delightful in its forwardness, it does not ask much but rather lays its cards right down on the table for all to see. Smooth red fruit flavors and a very friendly texture are the name of the game. On top of that, it unquestionably tastes like it comes from Chinon—something I value strongly in a Chinon.
$23.00 per bottle $248.40 per case
2010 BOURGUEIL “LES PERRIÈRES”
C. & P. BRETON
When a great terroir is in the hands of a skilled vigneron in a classic vintage, the results can be magical. The aroma of this Bourgueil alone communicates the majestic depth of the wine, enticing in its total purity and intricacy. Still tightly wound, it conveys cool earth, taut minerality, and fine tannins over a bed of velvety dark fruit. Vintages like 2010 don’t come around too often, and the Perrières bottling has a track record of long aging. Try a bottle now, and set several more aside in a very safe place.
$43.00 per bottle $464.40 per case