April Newsletter: KL Shocker: “Sterile Filtration a Blessing,” 101-Point Wines, Raveneau Switches to Beer, Big Selection of Unnatural Wines

The April Newsletter is now available.
Click here to download the pdf.

Highlights from this month’s newsletter…


by Anthony Lynch

This month’s sampler contains six wines that received a perfect score—or better. Our panel of experts sampled each wine on separate occasions, at his or her desired pace, with appropriately selected food, and in good company. The wines were rated with total respect to the context in which they were tasted. The judges came to the conclusion that these six wines, when imbibed with consideration for the style of wine and region of origin, represent the best of their respective class. All wines therefore received a rating of at least one hundred points.

Perhaps you too will award these wines outstanding scores when you consider their originality, individuality, and integrity to the style each represents. They are maybe not the six best wines ever, but they are honest translations of their terroir, grape, and grower. They excel within their respective class rather than trying to overwhelm all with power or flashiness. Ostertag’s old-vine Sylvaner, for example, does not have the complexity and grandeur of a mature grand cru Burgundy, but it truly shines when matched with a variety of diverse cuisines, and you will be hard-pressed to find a better Sylvaner. Tempier’s Bandol lacks the polish of many of today’s highest-rated reds, yet we appreciate it precisely for its rusticity and untamed soulfulness. Any of these six can be one-hundred-point wines—find the cuisine, mood, and company that bring out the best of each and you are assured a genuinely fulfilling experience.

per bottle

2013 Müller Thurgau “Sass Rigais” • Manni Nössing


2013 Les Vieilles Vignes de Sylvaner

Domaine Ostertag


2013 Patrimonio Blanc • Yves Leccia


2012 Vacqueyras “Cuvée Azalaïs”

Domaine le Sang des Cailloux


2012 Bandol Rouge • Domaine Tempier


2011 Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos”

Charles Joguet


Normally $210.00

Special Sampler Price


(a 20% discount)


by Dixon Brooke



When you think of the great Saint Joseph appellation, don’t forget to think of white as well as red. Though much less of the former is produced, it is one of France’s most unique, versatile, and delicious white wines. Made predominantly from Roussanne and Marsanne grown on granite hillsides above the Rhône, the best examples are dry yet ample, with an unctuous texture and hints of honeysuckle and pit fruits like apricot and peach. Lionel Faury’s interpretation is distinguished by its elegance, class, balance, and stylishness, a lot of adjectives you might not think to employ for this humble country wine. With a few years of bottle age on it, it is polished and ready to give maximum satisfaction, as an apéritif, with assorted appetizers, or with fish or fowl.

$32.00 per bottle $345.60 per case



How often can you find a Barolo with almost fifteen years of age for a price like this? That is a rhetorical question. From the Fantinos’ oldest vines in Monforte d’Alba’s storied Bussia cru, the raw material here is second to none. All of the secondary flavors you’d expect from a Barolo with this kind of maturity are starting to emerge: earth, wood smoke, tar, leather, tobacco, truffles, dried flowers, citrus peel . . . It’s time to get creative in the kitchen and let this bottle breathe while it awaits a rustic slow-cooked main course.

$55.00 per bottle $594.00 per case

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