August Newsletter: Staff Selections!, 2013 Jobard PA, Vigneron de l’Année

The August Newsletter is now available.

Click here to download the pdf.

Highlights from this month’s newsletter…

VINEYARD SALAD >

by Chris Santini

A good friend of mine who interned for several months at Domaine Barral recently described to me how Michelin two- and three-star chefs from all over France would regularly descend upon Didier Barral’s vineyards, armed with bags and knives, to walk the rows and harvest all kinds of rare greens and unusual herbs growing wild. Many of the harvested plants were so indigenous and so ancient that their names are long forgotten, while some of them have names in the regional Occitan dialect that have never been translated to modern French. The chefs know they are dealing with some of the healthiest and most vibrant soils of the Languedoc here, a self-sufficient farm that Didier and his family work endlessly to maintain. The Barrals are celebrated in many different circles, not only among the wine crowd but also among cattle and pig breeders for the quality of the ancient breeds they raise among their vines, pastures, and forests. Barral lets the chefs take home as much vineyard salad as they can cut, free of charge.

I swear I can smell some of those unique and  intensely perfumed greens and herbs in the 2012 Faugères, while the 2012 “Jadis” cuvée makes me think more of the black fruits and olives grown on the property. The 2012 “Valinière” shows the animal side of the domaine, giving allusions to smoked and cured meats and reminiscent of the homemade head cheese and smoked hams the family cures on site. The range is a peek at what wines might have tasted like back in the day when nearly all vine growers, all over France, made wine as just a single element of a multifaceted farm. Each of those elements would be imprinted with the farm’s terroir and the farmer’s personal touch. While France once teemed with growers like this, hardly any remain today. Didier Barral is our last producer to remain off the modern grid, with no cell phone, no email, and no computer. We hope he stays that way for a long time to come.

 

per bottle

per case

2012 Faugères

Domaine Léon Barral >

$35.00

$378.00

2012 Faugères “Jadis”

Domaine Léon Barral >

45.00

486.00

2012 Faugères “Valinière”

Domaine Léon Barral >

72.00

777.60

STAFF SELECTIONS >

by Steve Waters, Retail Manager

The beauty of selling wine is that it often entails telling a story. As salespeople, nothing helps build rapport better than describing a specific experience, whether it be from travels in France or Italy, or a memorable bottle served with friends and family. Personal wine adventures are a strong talking point! Our clients often do travel to Europe and entertain regularly, so the conversation is reinforced between both parties. It is a pleasure, once again, to present our sales staff to you. Let us tell you our stories and share our recommendations, and we’ll gladly imbibe in yours.

Back row: Adriel Taquechel, Dustin Soiseth, Steve Waters, Nile Mitchell
Front row: Alex Macy, Bryant Vallejo, Will Meinberg, Jennifer Oakes, Michael Butler

Will Meinberg

2014 RAISINS GAULOIS • M. LAPIERRE>

The Lapierre family is known for making some of the most serious wines of Beaujolais—but this is not one of them! Life can be stressful enough without having to worry about wine. So toss a slight chill on the bottle and unscrew the cap to enjoy the fresh fruit and cheerful essence of a wine that is intended to be shared with a lively crowd. I like to think that this wine and I share a common personality of joyfulness and whimsy. I suppose I do somewhat resemble the cartoon on the label. If you’re looking for the ultimate summer picnic wine, this is the one for you.

 

 

Adriel Taquechel

2013 CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET
BRUNO COLIN >

If ever there was a bargain world-class offering from Burgundy, this might be the champ. Bruno Colin may farm various premier cru parcels in Chassagne-Montrachet, yet this village wine embodies everything typical about the region’s terroir, which is filled with limestone and clay. It offers an alluring experience that reaches the intoxicating heights of premier cru–quality white Burgundy: decadent fruit with floral and spicy notes, as well as a round finish that is creamy and generous. For best results, lay this down and watch it blossom into a racy, divine creature that could easily outwit the most regal of higher-tiered Burgundy whites.

$69.00 per bottle $745.20 per case

Anthony Lynch

2013 CONDRIEU “CHÉRY” • ANDRÉ PERRET >

Legend has it that in the third century a.d. Emperor Probus issued a decree to uproot half of Gaul’s vineyards to combat overproduction within the Roman Empire. Yet he spared this special plot, his “coteau chéri” (darling hillside), based on the extraordinary nectar it produced. Today, Chéry’s legacy lives on: flaunting a sublime perfume, this voluptuous, refreshing, intricately woven masterpiece sets the bar at the summit for Northern Rhône whites. If you ever thought that Viognier could not age, hide away a few bottles of this Condrieu for ten years. The result—decadent, toasty, gloriously honeyed, yet bone-dry—is truly mind-blowing.

$82.00 per bottle $885.60 per case

Dustin Soiseth

2009 TERRANO • EDI KANTE >

Though new to me, Terrano is a variety with centuries of history on the Karst plateau in Italy and Slovenia. The grape is mentioned as far back as the fourteenth century, when vini terrani was offered to one Conte di Lozo, an ambassador of the Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV. Lucky guy. Medium-bodied and intensely aromatic, this wine provides an abundance of red berries and lip-smacking acidity—hallmarks of table-ready reds from cooler climes. Edi Kante is not one to release a wine before its time, and he tames Terrano’s substantial tannins with three years of aging in old oak barrels and a couple more in bottle for good measure. So raise a glass like an emperor, benevolently ruling your kingdom (or dining room) with a good measure of Edi’s Terrano in your jewel-encrusted chalice (or chipped “#1 Mom” coffee mug).

$25.00 per bottle $270.00 per case

Jennifer Oakes

2013 SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE
“LES GRANDS PICOTINS”
PIERRE GUILLEMOT >

It might be second nature for some Pinot Noir collectors to go for the richest and most lush iteration, but I think there is always room for the brighter, lighter, and earthier Burgundy. Enter Les Grands Picotins from Pierre Guillemot. This cuvée is a lean, mean, (slightly green) fighting machine. Redolent with aromas of the pine forest, bound with cinnamon/clove/orange and smoky incense, this silky-textured wine has a ruby clarity, fine tannins, and a bright, zippy finish. Akin to Little Red Riding hood battling the wolf, this little beauty has the power to outwit the arguably more powerful and come out on top.

$36.00 per bottle $388.80 per case

Top

Bryant Vallejo

 

Clients often come into the shop looking for the perfect wine to go with an extravagant dish. We find ourselves enjoying the challenge and are eager to suggest the perfect pairing. It leads me to ask myself, “What would be my absolute ideal feast with the ideal wine”? Well, picture this . . .

On a lovely summer day, you stroll into the village of Le Brûlat in Bandol. As the salty wind envelops you, you amble along the garrigue-scented hills with aromas of lavender and thyme flowing in the air. You happen to stumble upon the picturesque Domaine de la Tour du Bon—a magical place that shelters a small farmhouse bed-and-breakfast where you feel like you immediately belong. You relax with a bottle of Tour du Bon Bandol rosé—a gentle but seductive wine. Aromas of grapefruit and herbes de provence shine through the glass, soft and spicy on the palate. What a delight it would be to pair this wine with paella de marisco at a leisurely lunch and soak in all the pure pleasure. Next, you take an afternoon walk to digest that amazing lunch. Head through the vineyards, mostly planted with Mourvèdre—the king variety of Bandol. The hot sun beats down and the vines convey a sense of strength and depth, helping you to truly understand this powerful grape. As the night creeps in and it starts to cool off, why not enjoy a glass or bottle of the classic Tour du Bon Bandol rouge—one of my favorite Bandols in the shop and a steal at this moderate price. This Bandol captures the essence of the Mediterranean. It has lush fruit with hints of rosemary, squid ink, and peppery meaty flavors. Why not pair it with its perfect counterpoint, spicy Moroccan lamb sausages, or a traditional Provençal dish like bouillabaisse?

Fortunately I live in the Bay Area, where this cuisine is easily accessible and I can make this dream come true. Someday, however, I dream of indulging in the real-life beauty and freedom the Tour du Bon estate has to offer.

per bottle

per case

2014 Bandol Rosé

Domaine de la Tour du Bon >

$30.00

$324.00

2012 Bandol Rouge

Domaine de la Tour du Bon >

36.00

388.80

Top

Steve Waters

2013 BOURGOGNE ROUGE
“EN MONTRE CUL”
RÉGIS BOUVIER >

According to my notes from a tasting trip to France a few years back, the vineyard where this Pinot Noir is grown is the last remaining one within the city limits of Dijon. Luckily, it’s situated on a steep hillside parcel that I hope will protect it from any more city sprawl. The wine is aged in old barrels for just the right amount of time to reveal a breathtaking purity of fruit. The depth and complexity you will enjoy from this Bourgogne rouge make it one of our very best values.

$27.00 per bottle $291.60 per case

Top

Michael Butler

2013 BIANCO DI CUSTOZA “MAEL”
CORTE GARDONI >

This past January I had the great pleasure of spending ten days in Venice. We mostly just walked around enjoying the Dorsoduro and Cannaregio sestiere (neighborhoods) and all of the great art and architecture to be found there. On evening walks we would drop into little wine bars, such as Cantinone già Schiavi on Fondamenta Nani, to snack on cicchetti and sip stony, refreshing Italian whites. One of those whites was this delightful wine by the Piccoli family, who farm the area just south of Lake Garda.

It is a blend of mostly Garganega (the main grape in Soave) and is dry, medium-bodied, and very versatile at the table. We found that it went especially well with salt cod and octopus, but it has the vibrant acidity and body to work well with salami or prosciutto.

$17.95 per bottle $193.86 per case

Veneto

© Michael Butler

 

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