KERMIT LYNCH WINE MERCHANT

Louis Barruol is an indefatigable force in the Rhône. He is the fourteenth generation in his family to be making wine at his sixteenth-century domaine in Gigondas. On what was once the site of a Roman villa, Louis’ cellars show spectacular remains of old, Roman vinification vats carved into the limestone.

While based in the southern Rhône, Louis is incredibly passionate and knowledgeable about the great Syrahs grown farther north—a passion he discovered he shares with Kermit, who over the decades has worked with some of Louis' northern Rhône idols including Marius Gentaz, Raymond Trollat, and Auguste Clape. In an homage to these legendary vignerons and the increasingly rare style of traditional winemaking they practiced, Louis became a micro-négociant, working closely with top growers in the northern Rhône who still work with Sérine, an ancient clone of Syrah known for its aromatic finesse. Producing only a few precious barrels of each cuvée, Louis is helping to save the authenticity and the identity of many great old Côte Rôtie parcels, as well as those of Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, and occasionally Saint-Joseph, by keeping them out of the hands of the large, corporate négociants in the area.

Together, he and Kermit blend our northern Rhône wines from a selection of Louis’ purchased fruit. Louis selects the best parcels he can find based on his intimate knowledge of the region’s terroirs, and upon bringing the grapes in his cellar gives them the traditional treatment of spontaneous fermentation without destemming, aging in barrel, and bottling without filtration. Once a year, Kermit shows up and either chooses to have a cuvée bottled unfiltered, or he blends to find the assemblage that satisfies his aesthetic criteria.