1605 San Pablo Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94702

KERMIT LYNCH WINE MERCHANT

Technical Information

Wine Blend Vine Age Soil Type Vineyard Area*
Moulin-à-Vent
Gamay 50 - 85 years Pink Granite, sandstone, with a manganese-rich sub-soil 5.05 ha
* "ha" = hectares; one hectare equals roughly two and a half acres

VITICULTURE / VINIFICATION

• Vines are situated on granite slopes with east by southeast sun exposure
• Vines are sustainably farmed
• Harvested by hand at the perfect ripeness; no chapitalization
• After the harvest, grapes are transferred to temperature-controlled cement cuves, where they undergo a traditional semi-carbonic, whole cluster fermentation for about twelve days
• Pump-overs are performed daily
• Two rackings take place towards the end of the fermentation process
• The wines age in oak foudres for at least 6-7 months before bottling
• Only minute doses of sulfur are used
• Wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered 

MISCELLANEA

I forgot what year it was, but it must have been between twenty and twenty-five years ago. Kermit phoned me to let me know that he was looking to expand his portfolio in the Beaujolais. At the time, he was working with producers in Morgon, Fleurie, Brouilly, and Moulin-à-Vent. He asked me if I wouldn’t mind sparing a day to visit other producers. As you might expect, I agreed. And so one fine morning, the two of us left in his car. The first visit was in Saint Amour at a friend’s place who makes good, but very technical wines, using more modern methods with cement tank or stainless steel aging and a filtered bottling. We stayed for only a half an hour in the winery. Kermit watched, observed, and tasted, but said nothing. We took our leave of the vigneron, and before getting back in the car, he said to me, with a tone that silenced me, “If you are going to continue bringing me to the factories, perhaps it is better that we stop here.” I learned my lesson, and we spent the rest of the day with vignerons that work in the old-school style. Alas, only one cru caught his attention; it was a Chiroubles. I don’t know what happened, but their collaboration didn’t last long.


What a good memory and what a great day for me.

Bernard Diochon


Diochon’s Moulin-à-Vent is juicily delicious yet there is a majesty to it. It is full-blown and full-bodied, yet it has a lush, supple, swallowable texture. No hard edges.  No astringency.  No heat. Moulin-à-Vent is supposed to be the grandest of the region’s Grands Crus, and here you sense a certain grandeur throughout the taste experience. And don’t overlook the visuals. Diochon’s color is always a sight to see. The color, like the flavor, is cassis-like. This wine is a perennial favorite at the retail store in Berkeley, and Bernard himself is one of the most respected and beloved figures in the region. His wild moustache looks as if it has seen the inside of a million wine glasses, and it’s hard to imagine a world without wine like this.


Kermit Lynch

General Information

Country
France
Region
Beaujolais
Appellation(s)
Moulin-à-Vent
Producer
Thomas Patenôtre
Founded
1935
Annual Production
2,500 cases
Farming
Lutte Raisonnée
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