Domaine François Bertheau

Domaine Bertheau in Chambolle-Musigny can be summed up by two words–typicity and focus. Their work, as in all great domaines, starts in the vineyards, all of which are located in the village of Chambolle. Bertheau’s holdings would make any lover of great Burgundy drool. Not only does he have Bonnes Mares Grand Cru and Amoureuses Premier Cru (the best premier cru in Chambolle), but his other premier cru holdings are equally impressive–a blend of Baudes, Groseilles, Gruenchers, and Noirots. All of these parcels are very close together and Bertheau harvests them and vinifies them together, giving the wine spectacular complexity. Les Baudes happens to be located just below Bonnes Mares.

A very hands-off winemaker, François Bertheau allows the wines to express themselves–there is very little manipulation, very little racking, very little new wood (only 10% in total), and each wine is left to evolve slowly in barrel. These are classic Chambolles, emphasizing finesse, elegance, high-toned aromatics and silky textures. They typically drink well immediately upon release and remain balanced with aging–their approachability should not be confused with shorter life spans because these wines age beautifully.

Technical Information

Wine	Blend	Vine Age	Soil Type	Vineyard Area*
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru	Pinot Noir	40 - 45 years	Clay, Limestone	.34 ha
Chambolle-Musigny	Pinot Noir	40 - 45 years	Limestone	2.9 ha
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru	Pinot Noir	40 - 45 years	Limestone	1.10 ha
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses	Pinot Noir	40 - 45 years	N/A	.32 ha
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes	Pinot Noir	40 - 45 years	Limestone	.66 ha
* "ha" = hectares; one hectare equals roughly two and a half acres

VITICULTURE / VINIFICATION

• Wines are vinified in stainless steel and cement cuves for 14 – 16 days

• Wines are aged in oak barrels (20% new) for 18 months

• Chambolle-Musigny Village is aged in large, oak foudres

MISCELLANEA

I wish there had been enough for all you readers to have tasted Bertheau’s 1978 Bonnes-Mares with us after closing the other night. So many modern Burgundies taste like clean fruit juice with oak flavoring. The 1978 is a true vin de terroir, and it is still youthful with great depth and complexity, even for a 1978. Rather awesome, in fact.

I spend a lot of time and energy trying to make sure that the wines you drink taste as good in bottle as they did in barrel. With Pierre Bertheau, his always taste better in bottle! He is a gifted winemaker of the old school.

Kermit Lynch