Henri Perrusset
A
few decades ago, in a small, local vigneron
hangout in the Beaujolais, Kermit and Henri Perrusset met rather
serendipitously. There weren’t enough tables in the restaurant and the hostess
seated Kermit with Henri, who was just finishing up his meal. Their
conversation blossomed, and Henri invited Kermit to visit and taste his first
vintage. We have been buying these
delicious, distinctive Chardonnays ever since. For decades, the Mâconnais has been dominated by the banal
bottlings of cooperative cellars; not the sort of quality that leads novices to
explore the wines of the region. But at the same time, Henri Perrusset has been
working his vineyards by hand, reducing his yields to improve grape quality,
all while offering us very reasonable prices.
Henri
Perrusset’s vineyards and home are located in the small town of
Farges-les-Mâcon, on the northernmost spur of the limestone subsoil that
characterizes the appellation of Mâcon. Farges is not far away from the village
named (believe it or not) Chardonnay. The limestone in Farges is more marly
than the compact limestone farther south in Pouilly-Fuissé. It is hard and
intensely white, but breaks apart into small pieces and it is loaded with
quartz and marine fossils as well. This type of soil is easier to work despite
all the stones, provides great drainage for the vines, and gives the wines
their grainy minerality. Our Mâcon-Farges bottling comes uniquely from a parcel
of old vines, while the Mâcon-Villages is a custom blend of all his other
holdings around Farges. These are Chardonnays with the ripeness and intensity
level of a Pouilly-Fuissé or even a Saint-Aubin, with the particular goût de terroir of Henri’s corner of
Mâcon.

A few decades ago, in a small, local vigneron hangout in the Beaujolais, Kermit and Henri Perrusset met rather serendipitously. There weren’t enough tables in the restaurant and the hostess seated Kermit with Henri, who was just finishing up his meal. Their conversation blossomed, and Henri invited Kermit to visit and taste his first vintage. We have been buying these delicious, distinctive Chardonnays ever since. For decades, the Mâconnais has been dominated by the banal bottlings of cooperative cellars; not the sort of quality that leads novices to explore the wines of the region. But at the same time, Henri Perrusset has been working his vineyards by hand, reducing his yields to improve grape quality, all while offering us very reasonable prices.
Henri Perrusset’s vineyards and home are located in the small town of Farges-les-Mâcon, on the northernmost spur of the limestone subsoil that characterizes the appellation of Mâcon. Farges is not far away from the village named (believe it or not) Chardonnay. The limestone in Farges is more marly than the compact limestone farther south in Pouilly-Fuissé. It is hard and intensely white, but breaks apart into small pieces and it is loaded with quartz and marine fossils as well. This type of soil is easier to work despite all the stones, provides great drainage for the vines, and gives the wines their grainy minerality. Our Mâcon-Farges bottling comes uniquely from a parcel of old vines, while the Mâcon-Villages is a custom blend of all his other holdings around Farges. These are Chardonnays with the ripeness and intensity level of a Pouilly-Fuissé or even a Saint-Aubin, with the particular goût de terroir of Henri’s corner of Mâcon.
Technical Information
Wine | Blend | Vine Age | Soil Type | Vineyard Area* |
---|---|---|---|---|
Mâcon Farges “Vieilles Vignes” |
Chardonnay | 50 - 65 years | Clay, Limestone | 1.2 ha |
Mâcon-Villages |
Chardonnay | 15 - 30 years | Clay, Limestone | 6.5 ha |
* "ha" = hectares; one hectare equals roughly two and a half acres |
VITICULTURE / VINIFICATION
• Grapes are gently pressed
• The must is racked by decanting
• Wines are never chaptalized
• Fermentation occurs naturally with indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled cuves
• Malolactic fermentation begins in the Spring with the help of the bacteria present in the lees
• Wines age on their lees for 8-10 months in stainless steel cuves before bottling
MISCELLANEA
I believe the Henri Perrusset Mâcons should be on every wine
list. They are perfect as an aperitif and with so many first courses. It’s the
best way to start any evening.
Michael Butler, KLWM
I believe the Henri Perrusset Mâcons should be on every wine list. They are perfect as an aperitif and with so many first courses. It’s the best way to start any evening.
General Information
- Country
- France
- Region
- Burgundy
- Appellation(s)
- Mâcon-Villages, Mâcon Farges
- Producer
- Henri Perrusset
- Founded
- 1987
- Annual Production
- 3,000 to 4,200 cases
- Farming
- Lutte Raisonnée